John Lobb is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the 1800s.
Modern machines are present but secondary. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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